A plastic surgeon discusses skincare tips and popular procedures for South Asians
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) has designated November Healthy Skin Month, so New Jersey-based Dr. Samir Undavia took some time to share the top cosmetic procedure requests he sees from South Asian women. In this SEEMA exclusive, he also offers skin health tips, and discusses why South Asian skin requires unique treatment approaches.
With nearly two decades of experience as a leading plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Dr. Undavia has become a go-to for South Asian women either looking to reverse signs of aging or correct features that have plagued their confidence.
What South Asian Women Seek
Acne, hair loss (and removal), rhinoplasty and hyperpigmentation are the top cosmetic concerns Dr. Undavia addresses for South Asian women. Some of these issues are inherently more problematic for the population, while others are not. When it comes to hair loss, in most cases, regardless of your ethnicity, you’re usually dealing with an unfortunate genetic hand, though lifestyle can be a factor.
“With hair loss, the big thing that people talk about is stress, but not everybody emotionally and psychologically will deal with it the same way,” he said. “So, two people can have the same amount of stress, but only one person manifests as hair loss. I wouldn’t say that it’s the only reason, but I think stress could certainly be a factor for hair loss.”
Hyperpigmentation
This condition involves the darkening of sections of the skin. It’s commonly a response to trauma, like a wound, or anything that can cause inflammation, Dr. Undavia explained. Even acne is considered a chronic inflammatory condition.
Hyperpigmentation can also be triggered by sun exposure or pregnancy, in some cases. It can occur in anyone but stands out more in Indian and South Asian populations, the surgeon noted. “I see it often as acne resolves, particularly in the pigmented region around the eyes. It can also happen with other things, say you get a cut, any kind of inflammatory state. Acne is a big one though,” he added.
The skin brightening agent hydroquinone is a popular medication, which slows melanin production and usually offers results in six to eight weeks. There are also laser procedures, but the surgeon emphasized the importance of working with a physician with deep knowledge of darker skin.
“You’ve got to find somebody that has a track record of dealing with people of color –because their skin will react differently to medications and lasers,” Dr. Undavia says. “With lasers, the setting you use on a Caucasian person might be very different. You need to modify the settings so that they are less intense and don’t cause burning or pigment changes in an Indian patient.”
Rhinoplasty
The human nose is made up of both bone (upper portion) and cartilage (lower portion). South Asian nose structures tend to have more bone and less cartilage, and patients are more often looking for an augmentation procedure, or a bigger, more defined, nose, Undavia clarified. South Asian populations also have thicker skin than Caucasians.
“Thicker skin makes it harder to define the nose, and what might look good on one person may not look good on another. In general, a typical Barbie nose does not look that great with this [South Asian] population,” he added. “As a surgeon, you really have to manage expectations. You can’t show examples to a patient where the desired result won’t be achieved.”
Skincare Tips
The good news is that thicker South Asian skin tends to age better, according to Dr. Undavia. But precautions like hydration, using sunblock, eating a balanced diet, and not smoking are still the keys to healthy skin. He particularly emphasized the importance of sunscreen.
“Even with myself, I feel like I’m immune to the sun because I have pigment, but I know that’s not true,” he says. “Your skin does so much better if you wear sunblock. Even on cloudy days, if it’s just a part of your routine, and to maintain a lot of hydration you’ll do yourself a lot of good.”
Undavia recommends drinking at least eight 8-ounce glasses of water per day. Dehydration can lead to repeated cracks in the skin, which create creases that are hard to remove and give an aged look. He also said dehydration can contribute to more pain after a surgical procedure.
“Sometimes when we talk to patients having a facelift or eyelift, they’ll have some discomfort and we realize they forgot to drink water,” he said.
Undavia’s simple skin care tips are a reminder to anyone looking for the right cosmetic surgeon for help. Finding one with the appropriate experience is important, but skin care basics also still have a hand in getting and maintaining the best results possible.
