The Kolkata Diaries
As we approach the end of September, the city of Joy aka Kolkata gears up in all its finery to welcome its favorite deity, Goddess Durga. It is popularly believed that Goddess Durga descends on earth for a few days to visit her maternal home along with her children Lakshmi, Saraswati, Ganesha and Subramanya. The immersion of the Durga idols which happens on Maha Dashami symbolizes the return of the Goddess to her abode where she resides with Lord Shiva. Also called Sharadiya pujo, Sharodotsab (Festival of Autumn) or simply Pujo, Durga Puja is arguably the biggest and grandest of festivals celebrated Kolkata and is a cultural spectacle quite like none other. It is also one of the best times to visit the capital city and with several interesting sights spanning art, culture, history and heritage, it surely forms for a compelling visit.
Iconic Hotspots
With its colonial buildings and bungalows, heritage coffee houses, vintage yellow taxis and tram lines, Kolkata (earlier known as Calcutta) is a city quite like none other. If you are someone interested in history and heritage, make sure to visit iconic buildings like the Victoria Memorial built between 1906-1921 as a tribute to Queen Victoria, the General Post office building which is incidentally the first post office of India established way back in 1727 and Writers’ Building which dates back to 1777 and was built originally as the headquarters of the British East India Company. Further, the 19th century Marble Palace is a masterclass in neoclassical design and so is the Raj Bhavan which is the largest in India spread over a whopping 27 acres.
If religion is your calling, the famous Kalighat and Dakshineswar temples must be on your list. The former is one among the 51 Shakti peethas found in India and is one of the most revered places in the city. The latter is a classic example of the traditional ‘Navaratna’ or nine-peak style of Bengal architecture and is an auspicious temple visited by both locals and tourists. St Paul’s cathedral with its stunning Gothic architecture is another prominent landmark of the city. The Belur Math which was established by Swami Vivekananda in 1897, is the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Math and Ramakrishna Mission and is worth a visit. Take a ride along one of the most famous symbols of the city, Howrah Bridge which is an engineering marvel crafted in all-riveted steel. It is the world’s busiest cantilever bridge, by the way!
Hidden Gems
If you are someone who likes to tread off the beaten track, the City of Joy boasts of several places that are a haven for the discerning traveler. Case in point is the city’s College Street which is a book lover’s paradise. It is here that books stores sit cheek by jowl with several vendors even having book displays on the street making it one of the largest book markets in Asia. While here you can not only buy new and used books covering a plethora of subjects, you can also visit the legendary Indian Coffee House. This has been an intellectual and cultural hub since 1942 and was frequented by well-known freedom fighters, poets and scholars.
Several famous personalities like Mother Teresa, Subhas Chandra Bose and Rabindranath Tagore were based in the city and while here you can visit their homes. Mother’s house served as the residence of Mother Teresa from 1953 to 1997. She lived in a humble room on the first floor of this convent. The building also houses her tomb and a small museum which has displays of her personal belongings like books, clothes, furniture, rosaries as well as her awards. Located on A. J. C. Bose Road, this is the headquarters of the Missionaries of Charity.
Netaji Bhawan on Elgin Road was built by Subhas Chandra Bose’s father and today houses a memorial, museum and research center dedicated to the leader. The Jorasanko Thakurbari is the ancestral house of Rabindranath Tagore and forms for an insightful visit. It was here that Tagore was born, bought up and spent a large chunk of his life. Today, it houses an engaging museum which has galleries dedicated to art, the life and times of the Nobel laureate. Situated in Baghbazaar is the ancestral home of Holy Mother Sri Sarada Devi. The beautifully maintained home exudes an ambience of absolute serenity and houses her room and a prayer hall where people can meditate.
Durga Puja Vibes
While in Kolkata for Durga Puja, do not miss visiting Kumartuli or the potters’ quarter which is home to a little over hundred families who painstakingly handcraft the idols of Goddess Durga. Built using clay, straw and a glue made from tamarind, these idols are made by hand and are then painted in vibrant colors before being transported to various locations just in time for the festival. Watching these artists work deftly with their hands as they transform the clay into divine forms is indeed fascinating.
No visit to the city during this time is complete without Pandal hopping which refers to visiting several Durga shrines that are set up on decorative pedestals (called pandals) for the festival. The most popular pandals in the city include the ones at Kumartuli Park, Ahritola Sarbajanin Durgatsab, Dum Dum Park, Sikdar Bagan Sadharan Durga Puja, Suruchi Sangha and Sree Bhumi Sporting Club amongst others. To say that the pandals are magnificent is an understatement as each of them is designed thematically and personify the virtues of innovation, creativity and ingenuity at its best.
It is interesting to note that since 1985 awards have been instituted for the best pandal each year. This is called Sharad Shamman and is an initiative of Asian Paints. This year marks 40 years of Sharad Shamman and to commemorate this occasion, the company has transformed 40 yellow taxis of Kolkata into canvases of art. These taxis have been painted with symbols and elements integral to Durga Puja and traces how the festival celebrations and pandals has evolved over time. These quintessential taxis will be plying on the streets and if you get a chance do hop on to one of them for your pandal hopping trips. A perfect way to soak in the festive vibes and enjoy Kolkata’s enduring legacy.
