If you are in Gujarat and are looking to explore beyond the capital city of Ahmedabad, the ancient city of Patan must be on your list. Located just under 130 km from Ahmedabad, Patan was the erstwhile capital of Chavda and Chaulukya (Solanki) dynasties that ruled the state. Perched on the river Saraswati, Patan was always known as a bustling trading center. Today it is famous for its agricultural produce and industries like mining, silk weaving, wood carving etc.
Queen’s Stepwell: An Architectural Marvel
Unarguably the most important landmark of Patan is Rani ki Vav which is India’s best-known step well and a key tourist attraction. The construction of this mammoth stepwell started around 1060 AD by Queen Udayamati. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its architectural scale and magnificent craftsmanship makes it a monument worth a visit. The vav or stepwell is a massive 64 meters long, 20 meters wide and 27 meters deep and is built in the east west direction. Replete with multiple levels and a large tank in the center, this massive structure was actually buried for centuries due to heavy floods and years of neglect. It was in the 1980s that it was excavated and is today protected by Archaeological Survey of India. The monument is also printed on the hundred rupees notes in India.
The stepwell is replete with massive pillars whose surface is adorned by ornate sculptures and carvings. These include impeccably accurate geometric patterns, floral motifs and statues of apsaras, celestial beings, Gods and Goddesses. The superior workmanship speaks volumes of the talent and skill the craftsmen of the yesteryears were blessed with.
Patan Patola: A Heritage Weave
Patan is also synonymous with the globally renowned Patan Patola sarees. A textile weave that uses double ikat (both wrap and weft threads are tied and dyed using a resist method), Patan Patola is handwoven in Gujarat’s Patan by a few artisans headlined by the Salvi family. The Double Ikat weave means once the saree or fabric is woven, you cannot differentiate between the sides—the color and the intensity, the feel, and the look are the same on both sides. And this is exactly why this sari is most prized and sought after. This exquisite and wonderful silk fabric of India has been around since the 7th century. This involves a labor-intensive process where at least three to four weavers work together, and it takes around 4-6 months to complete a single saree which is 5.5 meters long and 48 inches width. This technique is handmade, and despite huge advancements in technology, no one has been successful in replicating it on a machine.
These saris are woven on a slanted bamboo loom that does not have any mechanical motions it is operated by hand without leg paddle making it most unique weaving techniques across the globe. The Salvi weavers use a special measurement tape for their measurements, which can measure and modify up to the 100th part of an inch on their cloth, invented 1000 years ago. This is also indicative of the detailed level of precision that goes into making this sari.
This means that these saris command a premium price and are often preserved and passed down across generations. Older saris in fact command much higher prices as well. The Patan Patola Heritage Center in Patan is a fantastic museum that offers some wonderful insights into the heritage of this textile. When here, do visit the museum where you can see looms, sarees, photographs and information boards all related to this fascinating handloom craft.
