If you’re trying to fight hyperpigmentation or anti-aging – two requests I often get from South Asian patients – the most vital component is the daily use of sunscreen.
Growing up, although staying out of the sun was encouraged, sunscreen was not emphasized. In addition to the many deleterious effects that UV radiation has on our skin, including skin cancer, it has also been repeatedly shown to aggravate many skin conditions, especially hyperpigmentation and aging. Given the multitude of sunscreens for daily use out there, it can seem daunting to pick one. So here are some important factors that can narrow your choices.
First off, let us make a distinction between chemical and physical (also known as mineral or “natural”) sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens contain organic ingredients, while physical or mineral sunscreens often only contain a combination involving either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing and converting UV radiation into heat, while physical blockers deflect the UV radiation off instead. Traditionally, chemical sunscreens were thinner and more cosmetically elegant. However, occasionally due to the increase in certain ingredients, such as oxybenzone, benzophenones, and cinnamates, they are also more likely to result in an allergic reaction in some people. Physical sunscreens are commonly associated with a white cast, making them less cosmetically attractive. However, several recent formulations make it an accessible option for all skin tones.
Additionally, for South Asians with hyperpigmentation and other concerns, tinted sunscreens often contain iron oxides, which also help fend off visible light, which has been proven shown to worsen hyperpigmentation.
Next, I usually prefer a sunscreen that is labeled broad spectrum. This term refers to the product protecting against both UVA and UVB radiation. UVA, which makes up 95% of UV radiation, penetrates deep into the skin, and is responsible for aging. UVB radiation is responsible for sunburns and is carcinogenic, being responsible for the majority of skin cancers. SPF, which stands for “sun protection factor,” only indicates protection against UVB radiation. The SPF number is based on how long it takes to burn the skin. A product with SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 blocks approximately 97%, and SPF 50 provides close to 98% protection. Most dermatologists recommend a product with at least an SPF 30, and I often recommend SPF 50 for certain disorders or hyperpigmentation.
Another label on sunscreen bottles is water resistance. Sunscreens are no longer allowed to be labeled waterproof; instead, water resistance is determined by how long a sunscreen can last on wet skin. Time limits include either 40 or 80 minutes, after which time sunscreen should be reapplied on wet skin.
Sunscreen should be applied every two hours for maximal benefits. One ounce (what fills a shot glass) is required for exposed areas on an average adult body. A nickel-sized amount (approximately one fourth of a teaspoon) is necessary for the face, and a quarter-sized amount for the head and neck. Another easy way to calculate this is to consider an amount that covers the index and middle fingers – from base to tip – for an entire face.
I usually encourage my patients to test out several products until they find a formulation they will use consistently. My favorite daily sunscreen for South Asian skin is from my skincare line, Oath MD’s, our newest product being our no white cast mineral sunscreen, Inzincable™. Dr. Divya Shokeen, a fellow South Asian board certified dermatologist, and I initially created this skincare line to tackle the confusion we were noticing in the over-the-counter market with the numerous products available. We strove to create a line that would refocus on the science behind skincare while making products that were effective, accessible, and, most importantly, reliable and consistent. One of the most important factors for us was for the sunscreen to be cosmetically elegant on our South Asian skin and for our patients. Our formula is a mineral-based, broad spectrum, SPF 50+ formula that works as a hydrating pre-makeup primer. Best of all, it leaves no white cast.
Other sunscreen products I have tested and are highly rated by my patients come from Elta MD, Isdin, and Skinceuticals. Elta MD makes multiple facial sunscreens and facial moisturizers that are also great for darker skin tones. My personal favorites include their UV Clear, designed for those with acne, rosacea, or hyperpigmentation, and their UV Daily, for normal, combination, or post-procedural skin.
Skinceuticals’ Physical Fusion UV Defense sunscreen and Isdin’s Eryfotona Actinica are also great options. If you are looking for a drugstore option, I am a big fan of La Roche Posay’s sunscreens, specifically their Antihelios line.
But, most importantly, remember that the best sunscreen for you is the one that you like and are most likely to use daily.
Mona Mislankar, MD, FAAD, is a board certified dermatologist. For more details, visit Dr. Mislankar on Instagram @drmislankar.
This article is for informational purposes only and should not be construed as medical advice.
For more by this author on SEEMA, check out Wiping out Acne Scars
