Aanchal Bubber Mehta, a couturier, is the co-founder of Bubber Couture alongside her twin sister, Sanjana Bubber Divecha. Founded in 2011, Bubber Couture has become a celebrated name in luxury South Asian couture. Over the past 14 years, this label has redefined bespoke fashion, blending Indian aesthetics with a modern, contemporary flair to create pieces that are both timeless and sophisticated.
What sets Bubber Couture apart is its commitment to both men’s and women’s South Asian fashion—a rarity in the couture world, where menswear is often overlooked. The brand’s menswear line is structured yet versatile, designed for the modern, style-conscious gentleman who values both tradition and innovation. The women’s collection is elegant, glamorous, and heirloom-worthy, crafted for those who appreciate intricate detailing and effortless grace.
Drawing inspiration from art, history, and archaeology, Bubber Couture also offers an exquisite range of menswear accessories, including pocket squares, buttons, cufflinks, bow ties, and shoes, ensuring that every detail reflects refined luxury.
Under the twin’s creative direction, Bubber Couture continues to set new standards in couture—where heritage meets innovation, and every piece tells a story of craftsmanship, individuality, and contemporary elegance. Here are the insights Aanchal shared about her life and the company she co-founded with her twin.
What drew you to the world of fashion, and how did your journey as a designer begin?
Our journey into fashion was born from a shared fascination with art and architecture from a very young age. Surrounded by the beauty of artistic expressions—whether in visual art, historical monuments, or intricate architectural patterns—we were instinctively drawn to the world of design. It wasn’t until we enrolled in a summer fashion course that we realized design was our true calling.
Our formal training at SNDT University, paired with two enriching years assisting a renowned men’s designer in Mumbai, allowed us to cultivate a deeper understanding of the craft. It was then that we decided to focus our attention on menswear. In 2011, we founded Bubber Couture with a clear vision: to create luxury Indian couture that is as multifunctional as it is understated, with an emphasis on impeccable craftsmanship. We began with menswear, designing subtle yet sophisticated pieces for the minimalist man.
Who or what have been the biggest influences on your design philosophy? Are there any designers, artists, or cultural elements that have shaped your aesthetic?
We draw from a diverse range of cultural and artistic movements—from the grandeur of classical architecture to the fluidity of contemporary abstract expressionism. Designers like Alexander McQueen, whose designs blend the past with the present; Iris Van Herpen, known for her surreal architectural craft; and the compelling artistry of Damien Hirst have all deeply influenced our creative approach. At the same time, we are firmly rooted in our Indian heritage, which we seamlessly blend with modern sensibilities.
This fusion of traditional techniques and textiles with contemporary forms defines our work. Our collections often reflect a range of influences. Collections such as Troy, Leon, and Siena embody these inspirations, offering a nuanced and diverse approach to design.
South Asian fashion is rich in history and craftsmanship. How do you balance tradition with contemporary design in Bubber Couture?
Our approach involves blending handwoven silks and intricate Indian embroideries with modern silhouettes and contemporary cuts. This balance allows us to pay homage to the past while speaking to the present.
Every collection is a carefully curated blend of themes, from historical references to modern minimalism, all woven together to create an original and unique vision, never losing sight of our signature understated aesthetic. Our goal is to create heirloom pieces that transcend fleeting trends, offering timeless luxury while embracing innovation.
Can you walk us through your creative process when designing a new collection?
Each collection is a journey, and it always begins with a central theme. This could range from historical events to architectural wonders, or even abstract art movements, a city we’ve visited, or a mythology that has captivated us. Once we have our theme, we explore it in depth, studying its nuances and symbolic meanings.
From there, we begin to experiment with textures, colors, and silhouettes that reflect the essence and mood of the theme. For instance, our Neko collection, inspired by Tsar Nicholas II Romanov, delved into his grand history, focusing on geometric grandeur and the melancholic beauty of his fall from grace. The result was a contemporary vision of a historical figure—timeless yet modern. Functionality is key in our designs; we aim to create garments that are versatile, multi-dimensional, and have longevity—pieces that transcend fleeting trends.
Unlike many luxury fashion houses, Bubber Couture gives equal attention to both men’s and women’s fashion. What inspired you to take this approach, and how has the response been from your clientele?
Our decision to design for both men and women stems from a deep belief in inclusivity and the notion that fashion should speak to every individual. We initially focused on men’s fashion because we saw a gap in the market for sophisticated, understated menswear. As our brand evolved, we recognized the need for the same level of detail and refinement in women’s fashion.
The response has been overwhelmingly positive, as our clients appreciate the thoughtfulness and versatility in both collections. Our ethos of timeless elegance and multifunctional design informs both lines, allowing our clients to experience luxury that is accessible yet profoundly high fashion.
Over the past 14 years, how have you seen South Asian couture evolve, and where do you see it heading in the future?
South Asian couture has evolved dramatically, particularly in the last decade. We’ve witnessed a shift from deeply traditional designs to a more nuanced and contemporary approach, with designers blending Western techniques with Indian fabrics and craftsmanship. Younger generations now seek a harmonious blend of cultural heritage and modern style.
Looking forward, South Asian couture will likely embrace a global influence, focusing on sustainability, technology, and customization while continuing to celebrate Indian craftsmanship. The future will see an increase in international appeal, more bespoke pieces tailored to individual needs, and designs that champion sustainability and ethics.
Sustainability is a growing conversation in fashion. How does Bubber Couture incorporate sustainability, ethical sourcing, or slow fashion into its designs?
Sustainability is central to our design ethos at Bubber Couture. We prioritize slow fashion by creating timeless pieces that are made with care and designed to last. Our commitment to sustainability includes working with local artisans who use traditional, sustainable techniques.
We focus on using natural fibres, avoid overproduction, and champion bespoke, made-to-order creations to minimize waste. Additionally, our multifunctional and reversible pieces reduce the need for excessive consumption. We also recycle scrap fabric and embroidery waste, donating unusable materials to Goonj, an NGO that repurposes these for community initiatives. Sustainability, for us, goes beyond eco-friendly fabrics—it’s about creating garments that stand the test of time, both in terms of quality and design.
The South Asian wedding and couture industry is highly competitive. What do you think sets Bubber Couture apart from other luxury brands in this space?
Our unwavering commitment to individuality and creativity. Each collection is an exploration of new perspectives, blending historical references with contemporary aesthetics. Our bespoke service is a standout feature, providing a highly personalized experience where we collaborate closely with clients to create garments that reflect their unique personalities.
Our multifunctional pieces, particularly in menswear, offer not just aesthetic beauty but practical versatility. This combination of luxury, creativity, and functionality has allowed us to carve out a unique niche in the competitive luxury market.
Running a successful couture label for over a decade is no small feat. What have been some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced, and how did you overcome them?
Like many in the fashion industry, we have faced our share of challenges—especially during the pandemic, which halted the wedding industry. We also grappled with rising raw material costs, changing consumer behaviors, and increasing competition. However, we’ve remained grounded in our vision, focusing on quality, timeless design, and impeccable craftsmanship.
We adapted by embracing digital channels to connect with clients and investing in technology to stay ahead of the curve. Our commitment to authenticity and long-term vision has been key in navigating these challenges.
What’s next for Bubber Couture? Can we expect any exciting new collections, expansions, or collaborations in the near future?
We have several exciting collaborations in the pipeline and are expanding our international presence. We’re exploring new ways to integrate AI technology into our design process, from custom 3D-printed details to virtual fashion experiences. Our focus will remain on delivering the finest bespoke couture, continually pushing boundaries while staying true to our roots in Indian luxury. Clients can expect more innovative collections that balance functionality and luxury as we continue to expand our creative vision.Our upcoming collection, Azuro, inspired by Chefchaouen, Morocco, encapsulates the mesmerizing azure hues and intricate architectural beauty of the Blue Pearl. Blending the regal tones of Jodhpur’s architecture with the symbolism of the Indian royal elephant, this collection is an homage to both Moroccan heritage and Indian craftsmanship, bringing a unique global perspective to luxury couture.
